where to – greece
where to – greece
frappés vs. freddos, the island of sifnos + an athens quickie
where to — d’s greek guide
we had our big fat greek honeymoon in sifnos + athens in september — think *romantic* island getaway but with european *culture.* we were initially going to island hop but since we were only taking off a week, it didn’t make sense to rush around. let me tell you, it was grueling to narrow it down to one island, but truly no regrets on opting for sifnos as our destination.
athens quickie:
… maybe too quickie… i wish we had another night or two in athens. i expected tourist filled greek art history irl, which was all true in some areas, but there was also a really cool scene going on away from the crowds. we landed in athens in the dead of the night and woke up with a day to hang before our ferry. first things first with a coffee (bb’s first freddo!) and pastry at behold theman. we saw the obligatory sights (all pretty walkable). but it wasn’t till we were back in athens again (for our flight back to la in the am) that we got to see the *scene* in our neighborhood exarchia. the blocks were filled with sceney bars and their outside seating build outs. it felt like a cross between berlin and brooklyn but all very greek. it was refreshing how little english was in the signage throughout our trip. i really believe that athens tanini agapi mou was hands down one of the coolest nat wine bars i’ve been to?! on point branding, colorful design and a wine list so extensive that they hand you a ruler to use as a guide to read each line of greek natural wines. we had an insane unfiltered deep rosé (soft spot) with complimentary (very) salty nuts (also soft spot) on a honeymoon high, not wanting our trip to end. we followed that high with late night gyros at kalopsimeno on our walk back to our airbnb.
the island of sifnos:
sifnos is not touristy or clubby like i hear about mykonos, nor is it that far on the ferry. she’s small-ish (very doable in a few days) known for greek food and handmade ceramics. set in the gorgeous greek island visuals that you imagine with welcoming locals (esp. the neighborhood cats). our airbnb casanona (literally grandma’s house!) was like a cozy live-in stone cave with no tvs etc., ideal for honeymooners, people who like each other a lot + solo travelers. every morning our host nikos, who manages a few b&bs, offered a sweet complimentary greek breakfast on his patio. i love love loved the crooked signature white painted steps around apollonia + artemonas where we stayed. i became obsessed with nearby bar botzi’s complimentary mixed nuts to go along with my (extra dirty extra dry vodka always) martini. pretty much all of the island’s establishments had this specific savory mixed nut that i’ve never had before (and i eat a lot of nuts) so we clearly had to pack a bag with us for a greek happy hour back in la. speaking of hh, if you see papras bio oreads, my go-to greek natural wine found in the states, don’t ask questions, just buy it, and tell me about it after.
hit up bettys bakery for vegan pastries + coffee before walking along a coastal trail in faros ending at the beach. rent a private boat with a skipper for a few hours to go around the island and snorkel in the salty, oh so blue aegean sea. we learned to always wear a swimsuit so you can venture into the sea at any given point like a quick dip post seafood-heavy lunch at vathi beach. you absolutely must bang bang in kastro at cantina for a zero waste (!) greek dinner and a glass of greek wine at loggia wine bar (dreamy natural wine bar playing records on the steps overlooking the sea). i’m not exaggerating when i say we had octopus multiple times a day mere feet from the waters edge. manolis stands out though with the soundtrack of the waves, fresh caught seafood hanging at the entrance and briney greek skin contact.
seafood aside, sifnos is known for its hearty (felt like a hug) chickpea stew. and don’t sleep on the greek favorite dakos salad (dried bread, tomatoes, olives, capers, sifnos mizithra cheese + oregano). everything in sifnos is served with plenty of olive oil and lemon, and the back of the menus list the origin of each ingredient <3. oh very (!) important: make sure you plan your trip while they’re “in season” because the island shuts down for off season and we barelyyy made the cut off.
greek coffee, freddos + frappés:
b and i made a point of taste testing all of the greek coffee specialities. there’s the traditional greek coffee: dark, thicc and grows hair on your chest so-to-speak. but i want to talk about the two greek iced coffee icons: freddos and frappés. a freddo is a greek iced coffee made by shaking espresso, ice (+ optional sugar) until frothy, serving over ice. you can make it a freddo capp by topping it off with foamy milk (for me). while a frappé is made with instant coffee (typically greek nescafé), milk, water, (+ optional sugar) and blended or shaken until frothy, serving over ice. we loved ‘em both but i think i’m team freddo (oat) cappuccino. but i’ll warn you: finding non dairy milk options in sifnos wasn’t always easy. we obviously packed some nescafé to make our own frappés at home with a cocktail shaker, and it still hits, even here!
la happenings:
maker’s market at carla’s fresh market - sun april 14th women-owned small businesses with (some of my fave clients!) atelier saucier, siesta co, kif etc. will be popping up in highland park
vinovore sunsets rooftop bar at silverlake pool & inn - thurs april 18th silverlake inn’s bringing back their poolside vinovore wine tastings, starting with california’s rosalind of (very good) emme wines. i’ll be en route to ny for this one, but i loved going to last years tastings
orange glou fair - sat april 27th nyc’s orange glou wine shop’s hosting a la wine fair with over 80 orange wines from california + georgia (not the state!). i’ll be shooting the event so i’ll see you there
now playing:
making flippy floppy by teezo touchdown
i love love love talking heads and this stop making sense tribute album also features paramore, lorde and soon toro y moi + girl in red
paid subscribers, you can view your google map bookmarks + full greek guide below and a discount off my greek 35mm prints.
