where to — paris
euro heatwave + chilled blouge vin de france. oh, and fuck ice
this was my third time in paris, and i somehow love it more and more with each visit. my mom lisa and her high school best friend, kate (my honorary aunt!), booked me a ticket on miles to crash their french trip. i made a pretty in depth google doc itinerary, booked their trains and guided them to reservations to earn my keep. i flew in and out of paris, met them in lyon and took the high speed train together to provence. we were in france during a record-breaking heatwave, fête de la musique (a massive outdoor party with music blasting across the country), and more record-breaking tourism. the louvre even had to shut down due to the crowds, and the eiffel tower due to the heat. i'll write up another where to — focusing on lyon, and touch on our wine tasting (chilled gamay!) in beaujolais and my quickie in avignon, provence.
i'd already done the whole tourist-y route (eiffel tower, notre dame, etc.), so this time i got to truly enjoy the paris my way: getting in my steps by aimlessly wandering between cafes to wine bars, without feeling obligated to see all *the sights.* you really can’t go wrong in paris, but it can be overwhelming, especially with a such a short visit, so let me share my ideal day in paris:
one night in paris:
take the train into the city from charles de gaulle, and properly wake up from your red-eye with a cappuccino + sesame (<3) cookie at ten belles in the 10th. take your coffee to the bank of canal saint martin and people-watch for a bit. meander over to slow galerie to browse the art + shop prints, then hit up 0fr. for books + vintage, and dreamin man for another hit of espresso + a slice of almond citrus cake. stop at merci to pick up their iconic merci logo-ed tote to bring back to your friends and fam.
by then, it’s about time for a glass of vin de france at aux deux amis (home to one of my first core memories with nat wine). keep walking till you hit l'as du fallafel for the best falafel stuffed pita you’ll ever have. stroll along the seine towards the 11th for clamato: oysters, raw bar, and a chilled glass of blouge. blouge is french for a blend of red + white wine, as well my new favorite word. i’m taking want to name our next dog blouge, kind of thing!... anyways, have another glass (hopefully a blouge!) and olives at clamato’s sister across the street, septime la cave, before making your way back home to your airbnb in the 10th. on your way, stop at mamiche before it closes to skip the insane lines, and get a pain au chocolat for the road.
wake up and cross canal saint martin to la fontaine to sit outside, seats facing out the parisian way, for an espresso (+/or wine… you do you!) and cake, taking in your neighbors' wafts of cigarette and french chatter before heading to catch your train.
i have plenty more paris recs + all my spots bookmarked for my paid subscribers: merci merci! scroll to the bottom or grab a la carte.
oh, and fuck ice:
it’s easy to daydream about moving to paris (seriously actually considering it), especially while the u.s. is such a shit show right now. so excuse my french, but FUCK ICE! seriously though, what’s happening in los angeles and across the country is inexcusable. families are being torn apart and kidnapped just because they weren’t born here. we move to cities to experience the rich culture of these immigrants. these immigrants, who are being inhumanely removed from their work and homes, are the same ones in the kitchen at your neighborhood restaurant, out picking the grapes in your bottle of natural wine, building your apartment building + handing you your bouquet of ranunculus at the farmers market…
it’s overwhelming how to help, but if you’re able, donate to organizations like chirla (the coalition for humane immigrant rights). support your local immigrant-owned and run spots, or really any of your go-to establishments, because most of the magic happening in the kitchen is courtesy of immigrants. protest when/if you can, and educate those around the country, who just aren’t grasping what’s actually happening.
la openings + happenings:
noma la 2026 - copenhagen’s infamous noma is coming to la for a residency next year! la really needed a pick-me-up like this… i think it’s finally time for me to ball out on noma
ohana superette - silverlake’s old poke spot has reopened better than ever by the guys of bodega park
bar bacetti - echo park’s tilda has reopened as bar bacetti apertivo bar next to sister restaurant bacetti trattoria
mad collective’s summer bbq - july 3rd at ètra feat. little fish oysters + dogs, ètra burgers and chainsaw pie in support of our immigrant neighbors
queen’s two year lowcountry boil - july 6th in eagle rock with live music, cocktails + raw bar
seco’s paella party - july 6th on the infamous sunset blvd sidewalk to celebrate seco’s rosé launch
lasita’s wine and garden party - july 10th in chinatown feat. los chuchaquis x lasita wine release and gardens & seeds x lasita summer merch, dj + chef’s specials
garibaldina mb society’s pasta platter - july 31st in eagle rock: italian social society’s monthly family style pasta platter + dj on the last thursday of every month
kismet rotisserie sandwich series - sandwich collabs with kate berlant, lasita, quarter sheets, etc. all benefiting chirla
now playing:
le roi soleil by miel de montagne
just bought this on vinyl!